Tampa food writer — Artisanal's Wine and Spirits list

The Beech and Sugar Mountain areas in North Carolina have some delightful fine dining spots, and we ventured out to find them. Artisanal, designed in a charming converted barn, offers a unique visual experience from driving down a picturesque winding road past horse pastures and farmhouses to get there to the dark exterior walls blending with the mountains' finesse, creating a serene scene.

Artisanal Restaurant Banner Elk — The restaurant, designed in a former barn and nestled on a hill, is an understated presence.

Stepping into Artisanal envelops visitors in an atmosphere of refined elegance. Warm wood tones, an exposed beam high ceiling, wood floors, and linen-covered tables create a sophisticated backdrop, while the piped-in gentle jazz playing in the background adds a touch of class. The open kitchen, visible from the dining room, adds a dash of culinary excitement to the ambiance.

The restaurant's impressive wine list lives up to the expectations one would have of a Wine Spectator Award recipient. Presented on a tablet, the list of wines, beers, and spirits is a testament to the restaurant's dedication to a comprehensive dining experience. With thirteen wines by the glass, including domestic and imported options, and a fully stocked, full-service bar with a refined selection of bourbon, Artisanal is a haven for wine and cocktail enthusiasts, offering a wide variety to excite your palate.

The menu switched to a three-course pre-fixe offering a few years ago, with six to seven options per course. I like it because it allows us to sample a broad cross-section of the kitchen’s talent.

We are escorted to the rear terrace, a space that exudes a comforting back porch feel. The view from here is breathtaking, overlooking a beautifully manicured area with a gentle brook just 30 feet from our table. Late August weather provides a comfortably cool dining experience.

Complimentary bread service arrives and consists of six small, fluffy baked rolls nestled in a cast iron pan, sprinkled with salt, and accompanied by a tub of whipped butter. The amuse bouche is key lime panna cotta topped with honey and crushed pistachios. Both are a refined start to the meal.

Everything on the menu is tempting. The ingredients and flavor combinations sound luscious, making choosing difficult.

I start with Lobster Tail and Potato Beignets. The pair is served a pool of buttery lobster cream sauce. The New England lobster tail has a sous vide texture and is sweet, tender, and perfectly cooked. The square pillowy potato beignet is delicate and lightly browned and is best enjoyed by sopping up some of that creamy lobster sauce. I assume bowl licking is frowned upon, so I move on.

Diving into Duck Confit Ragout, we find a strip of yummy dick swimming in tomato-duck jus mixed with pasta pockets of mushroom-stuffed agnolotti, whipped foie gras, orange gremolata, and parmesan. Every bite differs between the stuffed pasta, veggies, and duck. Again, it’s a delish dish.

Next, eight Virginia middle neck clams and three large shrimp are served in a bowl on a base of al dente tagliatelle pasta with oyster mushrooms in a creamy white wine garlic sauce. The menu calls for snap peas in the mix, but on this night, they substitute bits of asparagus. It’s a decent replacement, but at this level of dining, patrons should be informed of such changes at service. I am not a huge asparagus fan. The dish is covered with a generous portion of fresh Parmesan.

Artisanal’s Halibut dish features oyster mushrooms, Israeli couscous, and marinated peppers in a saffron tomato broth. The large, firm, flaky filet dipped in that peppery, lemony sauce and sweet corn is a sumptuous bite.
The six-item dessert menu is a cross-section of sweets plus a cheese plate. It includes six dessert wines as well. The final courses are good, but our selections don't rise to the occasion. Summer Cake is a fluffy lady finger topped with mint cream joined by peach compote and lemon-thyme ice cream. The dish is all hat and no cowboy. It’s a great-looking plate, but the combination of mint and lemon/thyme is off-kilter. Chocolate Breton (chocolate butter cookie), milk chocolate mousse, peanut butter whiskey whipped ganache, cocoa nib tuille, and caramel ice cream are also a nice presentation, but nothing special. It needs more peanut butter and whiskey kick. The crispy tuille adds a nice crunch.

Artisanal is a satisfying experience with good food and expert service. It is cuddled by a lovely setting amid trees, a stream, and mountains.
The dress code is business casual. Parking is limited, with valet available. Prices are fine dining level, and service is friendly and on-task. Reservations are required. There is no kid’s menu, so be prepared to pay the adult price of $105 (subject to change) for children. A credit card is required to hold all reservations, and the cancellation period is 48 hours before the reservation date. The cancellation fee is $65 per guest. And a heads-up: a 21% service charge is added to every bill.

They are open seasonally from the first of May through the end of October. Enjoy!

Artisanal: An Elegant Find in NC

Gamekeeper: Slightly Exotic Yet Refined

Felice Compleaño, La Segunda Bakery!